The best ryoken in Japan

traditional flute player

From Hiroshima we travelled to the island of Miyajima just off the coast. It is famous for its little cakes baked in the shape of a maple leaf and for its oysters. We had both as we made our way up the main street. The island is also famous for having one of Japan's three 'best views,' that of the floating Tori gate against the backdrop of the island's highest peak, Mt Misen. It was an ok view to me but as the tide was quite low I don't suppose we saw it as its best. Nearby was the Itsukushima Shrine that dated from the 6th century and once had holy status. I found it interesting for its large collection of decorative sake barrels.

Our stay on the island was most memorable for the absolutely top class ryoken we stayed in. It was set amongst a beautiful landscape and, although very traditional, it catered for western tastes. We had low seats with backs in our rooms, a private onsen and were given proper height tables and chairs at dinner. It made so much difference to our level of enjoyment. We had a fantastic evening meal. I didn't recognise much of what we ate but it was very enjoyable, although I did battle trying to eat a little fish complete with head and tail with a pair of chopsticks! After the meal we went for a walk around the grounds, which were subtly lit up with low spotlights. We watched in fascination as some of the hotel staff washed the flat rocks by the little stream. A very pleasant Japanese fellow in traditional dress struck up a conversation with me and told me that he was here to play his traditional flute for a VIP that was coming along soon. Needless to say I stuck around and was treated to the sounds of an ancient Japanese melody floating through the night air. I don't know who the VIP was but he came along flanked by his acolytes and took a few photos of the flautist on his mobile phone. It really made for a great evening and was marred only by the knowledge that once back in our room the futons would be laid out on the floor. These futons were thankfully thicker than those at the temple but still not thick enough and I endured another difficult night!